Every year, when the summer days begin to shorten and that feeling of “les vacances” starts to fade, I reminisce on the work that goes into bringing a book into the world. This time of year three years ago, I was typing away, writing My Paris Market Cookbook in cafés and co-working spaces across the city. Two years ago, I was running around Paris with my photographer, hastily styling food and setting up photo shoots. A year ago, I was planning a book release party with my beloved friends and respected colleagues in a natural wine bar in the 11th arrondissement.
Today I’m writing in my country house in the Loir-et-Cher, preparing to celebrate my book baby’s first birthday.
Obviously a lot has changed since My Paris Market Cookbook was published. Paris has welcomed fabulous new restaurants, coffee shops, breweries, and bars; and I’ve moved on to a quiet life in the countryside. I go back to Paris frequently, and am always excited to explore new additions to the city’s food and drink scene. But, I also find myself returning to my trusty restaurants, markets, and watering holes that still feel like home.
In the spirit of nostalgia, book birthdays, and tried and true bonnes adresses, let me share with you my very favorite places to visit in Paris from My Paris Market Cookbook.
This versatile bistro is perfect for any occasion. The classic Parisian charm is sure to seduce friends, dates, and colleagues and the laid back service welcomes passers-by for lunch, tapas, an after-work drink, an apéro, or dinner. The inimitable hum of a well-run restaurant and happy diners are the soundtrack at Café de la Nouvelle Mairie, whose energy is infectious. Classics like oeufs mayonnaise approach perfection and the wonderful wine list will have you lingering longer than you planned.
Address: 19 Rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques, 75005 Paris
Tel: +33(0) 01 44 07 04 41
This small café, attached to the fabulous housewares store La Trésorerie, serves Swedish-inspired pastries and open-faced sandwiches, paired with fresh juices and locally roasted coffee. The simple, seasonal menu is thoughtful and nourishing. It’s surprising that this spot has remained a well-kept secret. Its affordable lunch menus and quaint, calm dinning room are perfect for lady lunches or as a sanctuary on a busy day.
Address: 11 Rue du Château d’Eau, 75010 Paris
Tel: +33(0)1 40 40 20 46
The 18th arrondissement coffee shop is one of the early advocates in Paris’ craft coffee revolution. Get to Lomi early on the weekends if you want to get “the couch” — as it is commonly referred to by locals. Otherwise grab a spot at the common table and enjoy a coffee made from beans roasted on site. You can also buy coffee to go, by the bag or by the cup — but taking the time to settle in allows for great people watching and soaking up some of that 18th arrondissement energy.
Address: 3 ter Rue Marcadet, 75018 Paris
Tel: +33(0)9 80 39 56 24
Not far from Café Lomi you’ll find Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or, the city’s first intra muros microbrewery. This fully functioning urban brewery is open to visitors on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays from 5PM-7PM. Stop buy to tour the facilities, taste the beer, and buy some bottles to take home.
Address: 28 Rue de la Goutte d’Or, 75018 Paris
Tel: +33(0)9 80 64 23 51
One of the three all-organic markets in Paris, Marché Bio des Batignolles is THE Saturday rendez-vous for conscious consumers. Certified organic vendors sell a range of seasonal produce, free-range eggs, seafood, meat, cheese, and bread. If all of the options make you too hungry to wait to get home, grab a fresh-off-the-griddle potato pancake from Les Galatin‘s stand.
Address: 34 Boulevard des Batignolles, 75017 Paris
Tel: +33(0)1 45 11 71 11
Open Saturdays only, from 9AM – 3PM
Book early at this local’s favorite for the best brunch in town, which includes an all-you-can-eat buffet along with — because we’re in France — a hearty entrée-plat-dessert menu. The wine cellar is self-service, so you can grab bottles as you make your way through mountains of seasonal, delicious food. Plan on spending most of your Sunday in this lovely spot dedicated to Parisian’s sweet spots: food and pleasure.
Address: 6 Rue de Belzunce, 75010 Paris
Tel: +33(0)1 48 78 28 80
This one-woman-show wine bar is run by the industrious Camille Fourmont, who has put together a lovely selection of wines to pair with her attentively assembled small plates that reflect her favorite ingredients of the moment. Locals from the trendy 11th arrondissement mix with natural wine devotees in this tiny spot that embraces the “more the merrier” mentality. Sundays are a calmer affair, attracting a small group of lady knitters and hangover cure seekers — all cheered by the warm atmosphere.
Address: 67 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011 Paris
Tel: +33(0)9 83 56 94 11