As the holiday season ramps up, I’ve reflected on what it’s like to spend my first full winter in Paris. I celebrate Christmas, and while this will be my first one away from my friends and family in the United States, I am excited to see what the holidays in France look like compared to in the U.S.
When I arrived in January 2022 to start my studies in Paris, I got a sneak peek at what the holidays are like. Lights and decorations were still up all over the city, and on a class trip to the luxury department store Galeries Lafayette, I remember seeing the giant tree announcing a cheery “Bonnes Fêtes” between the shopping complex and the Opéra Garnier. However, being here before and during the holidays feels a bit different: the stores all have holiday displays and discounts, I have more time to enjoy the celebrations, and the general spirit feels like a mix of eagerness and stress.
Read about Jill Amari’s experiences and tips on how to make a successful move to Paris and how young people can master the job market after they arrive.
Although I think there are many similarities between Christmas in France and the U.S., I find that being in France allows me a better chance to ease into the holidays. Even though Black Friday made me feel rushed to buy gifts, I was impressed that Christmas decorations and deals were kept away until mid-November. In the U.S., it can feel like Christmas comes nearly at the same time the school year begins. As a society, we often skip Halloween, Thanksgiving, and the holidays in between, with a singular focus on the winter holidays and special discounts on gift-worthy items. Sometimes I’ve heard Christmas music on the radio as soon as the beginning of November!
In France, on the other hand, society largely seems to agree that Christmas starts when the weather becomes cold enough for hats, gloves, and scarves. As someone who grew up learning that October is for Halloween, November is for Thanksgiving, and December is for Christmas, I certainly appreciate this mentality.
To my surprise, I’ve also found that many stores play holiday songs in English. While French Christmas music does exist, I’ve only heard French versions played in advertisements, such as on YouTube and music apps like Spotify and SoundCloud. In my opinion, some of the best Christmas music is played at Les Halles, a neighborhood located in the heart of the city that houses a huge shopping forum. Whether I’m perusing boutiques at the mall, grabbing a patisserie after a Métro ride, or enjoying the multi-story-tall tree under the Canopée, I always find something to put me in the Christmas spirit at Les Halles.
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While holiday shopping at commercialized places like Les Halles and Galeries Lafayette can get overwhelming, there are many smaller shops scattered throughout the city that offer a wide range of gifts. For my own Christmas shopping, I’ve found great deals on books at used bookstores, clothes, jewelry, and accessories at thrift shops like Emmaüs and Kilo Shop, and eco-friendly gifts at sustainable stores such as Naturalia, Lush, and Lamazuna. For traditional French favorites and homemade crafts, the City of Light offers Christmas markets of all sizes and themes in almost every Parisian neighborhood.
While Christmas is not my favorite holiday—again, the stress!—I do enjoy spending time with family and friends. This year, I will be joining my partner’s family for their Christmas celebration in Normandy. Some of their Christmas traditions include going to Mass on Christmas Eve, opening gifts only on Christmas Day, and taking a walk along the beach on Christmas Day. They also celebrate their version of Réveillon, the traditional French dinner and festivities that take place on Christmas Eve.
Because my partner’s family is Catholic, Réveillon’s main event is the veillée de Noël (a Christmas vigil at the church), followed by Midnight Mass. Both before the Mass and on Christmas Day, we celebrate the holiday by having a traditional dinner, which varies by family but can include French classics like foie gras, chocolat chaud, vin chaud, and une dinde (a turkey)—and, of course, plenty of champagne. As any expat or France lover knows, food is an important part of the culture. The French take their time to eat, and meals are an essential social activity. During holidays, meals are particularly important, with many families taking hours to prepare the table decorations, food, drinks, and dessert.
While I am excited to celebrate my first Christmas in France, I am also eager to ring in the New Year in my new home, and I look forward to all that 2024 has to offer.
BONNES FÊTES À TOUS ! HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO EVERYONE!
